Given the time difference of one hour in Spain we were keen to make an early start to make the most of an hour earlier sunrise. We were up and out by 6am, expecting twilight and sunrise by 6.30am, only to realise that we’d done the calculation wrong and in fact sunrise was an hour later than Spain at 8.30am! So we were on the track for 2 hours wearing headtorches before we saw the first glimmer of daylight.
Despite this, we made really good time and got to Oui soon after sunrise. As we entered the township, we took a narrow cycle pathway to through the back streets and down to the cathedral. It was a beautiful downhill run which we paid for by having a steep uphill slog to the only cafe own in the town for a very welcome coffee and best croissant yet on the trip.
The Camino largely follows the main road for this section, which is great for us. We can pick up a pretty descent speed and we indeed smashed a lot of kms today. (Perhaps it was because we left behind those pesky South Africans who were leading us astray with their compulsory beer o’clock. Just kidding guys – hope you’re enjoying the rest of your trip and the cheap beers in Portugal!). Interestingly, although we were following a main road for most of today, it wasn’t at all busy. In fact, we had a lot of trouble finding places open to eat. Perhaps Monday is shut down day or this area is a holiday town with not much going on in off-season.
After Oui, we ducked inland to follow a narrow pathway down into Mougas.
Lisa: Sometimes life doesn’t always go to plan, but we remember the good and take the path that has been given. Team Sprinbok had to turn around and are no longer taking the path to Santiago but a new one where the beer is cheaper and the sun is hotter, very sad to say goodbye and very grateful they are part of our Camiño, we carry their spirit in our backpacks 🙏🏻
We left at 6am this morning pitch black showered with stars and only Helens head torch for light. Temperatures have dropped since Portugal and now wearing nearly all my clothes, makes for a lighter pack ! We followed the road for 2hrs in the dark trying not to let my mind wander to scenes from horror movies 😱 finally found a nice cafe for breakfast.
We continued on the road which hugged the stunning coastline for the rest of the day, chatted to a few pilgrims but basically very little action along the long quiet road, mostly everything closed like a ghost town. Managed to find something open for a snack and continued along the relatively flat easy road. We got stopped by a few locals for a chat or a photo or to give us fruit which just makes it that bit more special.
However, we did also got stopped by a Spanish journalist for a quick photo shoot and interview, who knows what he will write as he couldn’t speak English !! And who knows where our faces will pop up, probably in a men’s toilet somewhere knowing us 😂.
After a fairly quick 30km, about 8hrs later with one croissant and piece of cake we made it to Baiona, a beautiful little town with some interesting history which I haven’t found out yet. The hostel is amazing, modern, clean, washing machine, dryer, hairdryer, not only is it fully accessible but the toilet has a toilet seat – my prayers have been answered 🙏🏻 my hair had its first wash in a week and now I feel brand new, loving life and exhaustion far from my mind with a town to explore.
Had the most amazing dinner, grilled veg and seafood risotto washed down with scrumptious port, came back to the hostel for tea, chocolate and the best cheesecake from the hostel manager.
We killed it today, and nearly me so I’m off before I fall off 😴😴 A rest day in this bewt town tomorrow.